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Mounting your Unmounted
There are various methods available for mounting your own stamps. The rubber-stamp magazines like Vamp Stamp News and Rubberstampmadness, for example, offer lots of information on this subject, but for those who want a quick idea about what involved, here is what I know.
My friend has a saw, so I buy my wood at the hardware store. You will find hardwood boards, 1/2" thick in different widths 2", 4" and 6". The length is standard - 48". You will also need to buy the spongy cushion (which you can order from Sumac). This cushion has an adhesive on both sides.
So to begin. I take my newly purchased unmounted rubber die and position it, image side up, on the cushion's paper backing. Using a pin, I poke holes, tracing a rough outline of my die on the paper backing. (Pencil doesn't mark the paper well, and ink smears.) Following the holes, I cut out the shape with sharp scissors (I use a pair by Fiskars called “soft-touch”). Before I peel off the paper backing and stick the cushion to my rubber die, I make sure the shape of the cushion matches with the back side of the die. I then peel off the paper. Centering the die on the cushion — making sure the cushion extends beyond the rubber die on all sides, I press firmly to stick the cushion to the rubber. Then using the Fiskars again, I final trim the cushion nicely but not too close — 1/8" is good — from the image edge.
To prepare the wood mount. I chose the width of wood board closest to the size I need for my stamp die. I will stamp the top of the wood plank to accomplish two things. To identify the stamp, and show me where I need to cut the wood to leave a 1/4" margin of wood all round the stamp. Using black pigment, I carefully ink my cushioned rubber die, and stamp the wood plank at one end. Let it dry completely. Pigment ink dries slower then dye ink.
 You can do more then one stamp at a time as long as you leave at least a 1/2" between the images. Then I cut the wood into blocks, leaving a good 1/4" margin around each stamped image. The cut blocks are easy to match with the right rubber die because of the stamped image on top. Sand lightly to smooth any rough edges. I usually apply a light coat of spray varnish to the top and sides (not the bottoms) of the wood blocks to help preserve the image from future inky fingers.
Now to finish mounting the stamp... I peel off the paper backing from the other side of the cushioned die. I place the cushioned die on the underside of the wood block, matching it's position as close as possible with the image I stamped on top. Stick and press firmly…
…and I am ready to stamp.
Other options for mounting your rubber dies: some stamp stores and mail-order companies sell bags of wood blocks cut in a variety of sizes. This is good for those who don't have access to a saw to cut wood. There are also acrylic blocks you can buy. These can be used with different cushioned dies each time. You stick the die to the acrylic block, use it to stamp, then remove the die. This option is probably good if space is limited, since wood blocks can take up a lot of room.
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The best stamp cleaner
— a box of Huggie Baby Wipes
I tried the other brands, but the unscented, un-lanolin baby wipes by Huggie work the best. The box sits on my working table. After using a stamp, I just pop open the lid, stamp on the Top tissue a few times, then rest the stamp on its side for a moment to dry.
It's cleaned perfectly. When the Top tissue in the box gets too dirty, just peel it off and throw it away. A box of Huggies will last a long time and the tissues stay moist to the end.
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A good source for paper
— your local printer
After printing, many jobs have to be trimmed. Although these off-cuts are usually recycled, try to persuade your printer to save you small amounts of the more interesting paper stocks he uses.
Also outdated paper sample swatch books are a good source for expensive papers you won't see at a local stationary store.
Although small, the size of these papers are usually perfect for layering on stamped cards.
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For attaching artwork
— 'Dryline' by Liquid Paper
There are two canisters. The Dryline yellow canister contains a temporary double-sided glue. This allows you to move the pieces around until you are satisfied with the arrangement of your design. Then you use the red canister's permanent double-sided sticky tape to firmly stick each piece in its final position.
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